Amalfi Coast
Not too many destinations can boast of having an active volcano and a mummified city appear on a drive of just over an hour. From Naples, the Amalfi Coast is only a short hour long drive, unless Vesuvius and Pompeii persuade you to linger awhile on the way. The two are inextricably linked but both are huge tourist attractions in their own right. Despite the fact that Vesuvius obliterated Pompeii in 79AD only about 10 per cent of its population died in the aftermath, but the remarkable remains of the city make for a fascinating visit.
We’re basing ourselves for our first two nights in Scala, directly above Amalfi, not so much as the crow flies, more like as the goat climbs. We’re in the nosebleed area of the coast, and while it is spectacular, the weather is not playing our game. It’s difficult to see much of the sea between the two peaks in the distance below as the rain continues its relentless downpour. Scala is one of those quiet little villages hanging on to the hillside offering a much more authentic experience to the tourist heavy towns down on the shoreline. If we thought Italy in general was bad for drivers, then the Amalfi Coast is gold medal country. The famous hairpin bends are an art form in driving skills. There must be an extra test you can take to get a specific Amalfi Coast Approved Driving Licence.
Accommodation for the night is a little apartment quaintly named ‘Il Paradiso sul Mare’. The use of the word Paradiso could be considered a bit over optimistic, but it’s clean, comfortable and comes with a terrace with a view, and a spectacular one at that. Distant dogs bark through the night and I feel a need to go and feed them. Apparently they talk to each other at night, because the hubbub of daytime is too noisy. They should have dog phones provided so they can check in with one another and so keep the peace, but in a strange way it’s very Italian and atmospheric.
The following day, the weather improves, and breakfast takes on a whole new meaning taking in the sweeping views of the Adriatic and surrounding hills. Ravello is a mere 3.7 km away. However, it takes us over half an hour after a combination of long traffic lights and drivers who try to outsmart the lights and then meet a vehicle coming in the opposite direction.
Ravello is a revelation. Not so much for the pretty square and surrounds which are a delight, but for its main attraction. The famous Villa Rufolo and Gardens were saved and renovated by a Scotsman called Neville Reid. He suffered from “afflictions of the chest” so in 1851 decided the air in Italy was much better for the soul. Little did he know that millions of Scots would follow him, not so much because of afflictions of the chest, but more for the sun, sea and cheap holidays. Reid spent years and a family fortune renovating and creating the extensive and stunning gardens overlooking the Adriatic.
After a magnificent ice cream it’s back to Paradiso. There are only two restaurants in the village that are open. In fact, there literally only two restaurants in town. We ate in the excellent ‘San Giovanni’s’ last night, but tonight is the turn of ‘Antico Borgo’ which, after a poll of all the diners, the result suggests that this is the better of the two. The poll consisted of two diners. Same as the number of restaurants which is only fair.
Isle of Ischia
Having to ditch the idea of driving round the coast to Sorrento and on to Naples because of extreme congestion on the road, the more direct route over the mountains provides its own challenges when two trucks get stuck in a narrow village street with neither giving leeway. The situation gets resolved when they both get out of their cabs. One offers the other a cigarette and then they discuss the vagaries of the local road system, before one backs up and all is clear. It’s the Italian way. We get onto the main E45 highway to the home of pizza and an hour later we arrive at the port of Naples to catch the ferry to our next stop, the Island of Ischia.
The short hop to this beautiful island is served by four ferry companies, which include a hydrofoil, but none are particularly effective in making it easy to get on board – directions are a little loose. Ischia, known as the ‘Green Island’ is a more authentic, lush and more expansive alternative to its more famous neighbour across the bay, Capri. And of course, somewhat easier on the wallet. Situated on the southern coast of the island Sant’Angelo is a picturesque, car-free fishing village, known for its upscale atmosphere. It is characterised by a central piazza a charming marina, and the rocky islet of La Torre, connected by a narrow walkway. The accommodation is really just a room, in an apartment, below a restaurant, sharing with owners Conci and Michele. However the saving grace is the little stone balcony just feet from the water. A place where you feel you could demolish a couple of bottles of wine and a few snacks well before dark. Sleep comes easily. For about an hour.
Last night the gods were angry and offered up a smorgasbord of thunder, lightning, and torrential rain on an epic scale. There then followed during the course of the day, a partly flooded apartment, a car shunt from behind, a parking fine, a mobile phone left for a few hours on top of our vehicle in a car park, and a one-legged pigeon who took a fancy to my nuts.
Over a hundred lightning strikes and hours of thunderclaps gives me a new appreciation for the grey, dull skies back home. Bad weather is different here, but exciting in a kind of masochistic way. It keeps you awake but also you are somehow disappointed if another roll of thunder doesn’t assault your senses within the next five minutes. Our partly flooded apartment requires the help of the Conci and Michele to get mops and brushes out, but with a shrug of the shoulders it seems as though this isn’t any great drama. Life should be so easy-going !
Luckily the car shunt from behind, although turning our necks round like a scene from the Exorcist, didn’t seem to do any permanent physical damage and none to the car either. Standing in the main winding coast road trying to discuss a solution with the two older Italian occupants of the attack car who can’t speak a word of English is challenging. Gesticulating between the four of us must have looked like street theatre to the many passing drivers. Our new colleagues were reasonable, so we parted maybe not the best of friends, but amicably.
Our one-footed pigeon is the most persistent and bold feathered friend you could imagine. Sitting outside the cafe inside the magnificent Aragonese Castle d’Ischia high on a promontory, apart from the obligatory bottle of wine, we only had crisps and nut’s but Hoppy the pigeon hops onto our table time and again, despite me telling him the salt content isn’t good for him. Of course, he only understands Italian, so he is undeterred.
All faith in human nature is restored that evening by Luca and Danielle in their roadside pizzeria, with added Sky Sports. At first we are refused entry as it is an hour before opening time. However, as soon as I mention we want to watch football, we are ushered in, tables and chairs are moved, and the owners spend a long time looking for the right TV channel despite us apologising and being prepared to skip out. A cast of several come to help, and they won’t let us leave. The chef, with just the right twist of the controls, eventually finds the correct channel. We’re made comfortable before Daniela brings us complimentary bruschetta as a comfort snack with beer. Now we know we HAVE to stay for dinner, which turns out to be as good as any we’ve eaten on this trip. A great end to an eventful day. And I won’t mention the earlier mobile phone left on the car roof incident.
Naples
The following day we find ourselves back at the port of Ischia looking to find a parking spot before boarding the ferry. Apparently you have to time your arrival with the loading of the ferry because there is literally nowhere to queue. The sail to Naples takes just over an hour and we arrive at ‘Casa Valeria’ unscathed.
Our hostess Valeria turns out to be gloriously crazy, in the nicest way. She has a style that could be at the very least considered enthusiastic, edging towards hyper. We have a comfortable room for the next two nights at the back of her apartment, although breakfast the following morning doesn’t quite live up to Valeria’s effusive personality. Even the accompanying hand actions don’t improve the offering, but you can’t help but love her. I’m sure it’s a marketing ploy just so we can give her place five stars, and God loves a tryer. So why shouldn’t Trip Advisor?
With so many coffee stops and eating places in Naples, we don’t really need breakfast. The apartment is in the upscale and leafy Vomero district on a hilltop dotted with gelaterias, alfresco cafes and refined restaurants, so we set out for a full day’s walk. This turns a 12 hour day into a joyfully chaotic immersion, with too many people, but if you embrace the vibe, it’s an uplifting and fascinating experience. A funicular ride down to the old town, a trip underground to see Naples below the streets, a few coffee stops enroute, a dozen churches or so and the obligatory “I’ll just pop in here for a minute to have a look” shopping opportunities. Luckily my partner is more interested in street life in the actual street rather than the enticements that sit behind the façade of the numerous retail dens of iniquity.
Underground Naples offers an hour and more of fascinating look at the sheer scale of the construction and imagination of the people who created this subterranean world many thousands of years ago. The ingenuity in building this complex, situated some 40 metres below the streets is astonishing, makes it one of the top tourist attractions in Naples. However, even that after all those years they still can’t fix the potholes that pepper the roads round the city! Progress is slow!
We miss out on the catacombs further to the north and a number of other attractions but when wandering the streets, the chaos and charm of this place is never lost. It may be dirty yes, it may covered in graffiti, including the churches, but God will forgive an artist. The buildings are historic, wonderful and neglected all at the same time. Crime level is high, especially pickpockets but it’s like having a love affair with the city. One minute you are on a high, the next you are disappointed. A few days in Naples is never enough to understand the contradictions of this place and like all good love affairs, you need time to get to know each other.
Mileage – 190